The Big Island (Hawaii) is the most diverse, and that was one of the main reasons why we chose it. The western side of the island offers the most beautiful beaches, the eastern side tropical forests and waterfalls. The island’s highest mountain, Mauna Kea, has an altitude of 4205m. However, if measured from its underwater base, it is the tallest mountain in the world with a total height of 10203m. Adding to the adrenaline is the fact that there are still active volcanoes on Big Island. Kilauea is currently one of the most active volcanoes in the world. The flight with Hawaiian Airlines from Honolulu to Hilo took 50 minutes. From the right side of the plane, it was possible to see the islands of Lanai, the uninhabited Kahoolawe, the crescent-shaped Molokini, Maui, and our destination, Big Island.
Contents
Day 6 – Arrival in Hilo and Enchanting Waterfalls
Day 7 – Swimming in a Warm Spring
Day 8 – Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Day 9 – Papakolea Green Sand Beach, Honaunau Bay, and Mauna Kea
Day 10 – Kealakekua Bay and Maniniowali Beach
Day 11 – Kahaluu Beach Park and Kukio Beach
Day 12 – Kehaka Kei State Park with the Beautiful Makalawena Beach
Day 13 – Waipio Valley and Northern Beaches
Arrival in Hilo and Enchanting Waterfalls
We packed our bags in the evening to avoid rush. We transfer to the airport by a shuttle bus arranged by our hostel. We board the plane headed for Big Island.
TIP: Hawaiian Airlines is a top choice for inter-island flights; you won’t be able to pay with a Slovak card on their website, so we recommend going through travelocity.com to find the appropriate flight. We advise against overnighting an inter-island flight.
We land in the largest city on Big Island, Hilo. According to statistics, it is the rainiest place in the United States, which we immediately noticed upon arrival. The rain was pouring down intermittently. At the airport, we rented a car from Dollar.
TIP: The price you reserve the car for online does not include insurance, so be prepared for an additional $40/day.
We were assigned a red Chevrolet Cobalt LT as we had reserved a Compact class. By the way, all cars were automatic, but it’s just a matter of habit. We stayed at Hilo Backpacker’s Hostel, which seemed to be connected to our accommodation in Honolulu based on the name. It was basically one larger house with shared toilets, showers, and a room slightly smaller than on Oahu. We unpacked our things and our first trip by car started with a visit to Rainbow Falls. We admired the beautiful waterfall and ventured a bit into the jungle. The trees were more overgrown than usual, so we had fun pretending to be Tarzan and swinging on vines.
We drive a bit north by car toAkaka Falls State Park. Walking through the rainforest can begin. The circuit is exactly defined by a footpath, so you can’t move freely there. It’s such an easy walk with a nice ending in the form of the 129m tall Akaka waterfall. The last stop of today is Hakalau Bay, where we sit under a huge bridge. The evening is spent in the company of Jack Daniels.
TIP: Americans have very cheap whiskey, a Jack Daniels can easily be found on sale for $10.
Program completed at 100%, the car is doing its job.
Bathing in a Hot Spring
Breakfast is included, surprisingly we had toast with jam 🙂 A short visit to the Pacific Tsunami Museum and the rainy weather drives us to the southeast part of the island called Puna. We arrive at a crossroads, the right goes to lava fields, we continue to the left. We stop at MacKenzie State Park, where we looked at cliffs and water crashing on rocks. We didn’t swim much here, but we make up for it at Ahalanui Beach Park. It is a natural pool with warm water around 32°C. The water is heated by volcanic warmth. Right at the entrance, there is a sign warning that there may be bacteria in stagnant water and swimming is at your own risk. But we took the risk, Americans have everything regulated, what you can and cannot do, and this is just a nice example of that. There are entry steps into the water and a baywatch tower. We have lunch, our homemade supplies, and relax on the mat. In the afternoon, we continue with our car, driving along the coast and occasionally taking breaks to run to the rocks.
The road is getting a bit rougher, but we don’t give up. We return to the main road through Hawaiian Beaches Park. The name is mega-attractive, but we didn’t see anything special there, so we just took a photo with the sign 🙂 We return to Hilo in the evening. We stop at the statue of King Kamehameha. The walk continues around Bayfront Park, where there were kayak races happening. Rain was looming again and when one imagined how the tsunami of 1946 reached here, I think not only I had a gloomy impression of the whole Hilo Bay. There are even clocks here that stopped exactly at 1:04 AM and remember that terrible event. The last tsunami in Hilo was in February 2010. At the end of the day, like true Americans, dinner at McDonald’s. The one Euro deal on a cheeseburger also applied in the USA, or more precisely, the one-dollar deal 🙂
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Our early farewell to rainy Hilo as we slowly make our way to the west of the Big Island. The first stop of the day is the national park Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The volcano Kilauea is currently one of the most active volcanoes in the world, so it’s a challenge in a way. We paid the entrance fee to the park area and there you can freely move around by car.
TIP: Be prepared for some serious cold, as it is at an altitude of around 1200m.
We recommend visiting the Kilauea Visitors Center first, where they will give you maps and advice on which trails are available. You simply have to be lucky to see the flowing lava. When we were there, it flowed two months ago. You won’t believe it, but we met a Slovak guy, Alex, here and our expedition grew to include one more member for three days. We continue, this time as a group of four, with a brief tour of the Thomas A. Jagger Museum. Halemaumau Crater, which was smoking like crazy. The main loop around Kilauea’s crater (Crater Rim Drive) was further closed due to increased sulfur dioxide levels, so we are heading back. We’ll continue following the recommendations. Kilauea Iki Trail is about a 6.4km moderately challenging hike. The trail starts in the forest around the crater, then descends and crosses the crater floor through a lava field. It was quite thrilling to see smoke coming out from under the rocks in some places. But as you can see, we survived it 🙂
Next, we head to the lava tube Thurston Lava Tube. The tunnel is short, but the more adventurous can continue at their own risk. We get back in the car and head towards the ocean to the end of the road Chain of Craters Road. The asphalt is interrupted by a lava field, so from there on, we can only continue on foot. A very descriptive sign reads “Road Closed.” In the evening, we plan to spend our first night in a tent.
TIP: You need a permit for each camping spot in advance, either online or in person at the offices.
We arrive at Namakanipaio campground. It is one of the two campgrounds in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park where no permit is required. The grassy area with eucalyptus trees was empty. In the end, due to the weather, we decided to sleep in the car. No one really felt like drying the tent the next day. We move to Punaluu Black Sand Beach, where we took a risk and parked in the parking lot. Some rowdy youngsters caused a bit of a commotion, but fortunately, they moved elsewhere. It wasn’t the most comfortable night’s sleep, but we’re not whiners.
Papakolea Green Sand Beach, Honaunau Bay and Mauna Kea
In the morning, we set our alarm for 6:00 so that the camp manager wouldn’t surprise us. There are showers at the campsite, so we freshened up a bit. We strolled along the black sand beach of Punaluu and then headed to the southernmost point of the Big Island and the entire USA – South Point. The road gets a bit rough towards the end, and you might see a herd of horses, cows, or other animals. There are also windmills and satellites around. At the end, you can see steep cliffs with makeshift ladders and a few portable toilets, who knows why 🙂 Further on, there’s just a lighthouse, but we decided not to go there. We parked the car in a nearby parking lot and embarked on a long hike to the green beach.
TIP: Don’t forget to bring enough drinking water.
Once again, the rule proved true that the most beautiful places are worth the effort. It’s rugged terrain for 4×4 vehicles, but well, every American has one, right 🙂
We did the trek on foot, and believe me, those 10km are truly worth it. After an hour and a half, Papakolea Green Sand Beach unfolded before us in the distance. It’s the only green sand beach in the world, and the fine for taking sand from it is $500. The green color of the sand comes from olivine minerals. The descent down the ladders and rocks was the least of our concerns when we reached our destination. We laid out a blanket and frolicked in the water. The waves often swept us under. After a bit of a rest, we slowly made our way back to the car. Along the way, we encountered a large group of locals, and we were glad we arrived early.
After a demanding hike, we head back to the beach for some relaxation. We arrive at Ho’Okena Beach, but soon move on so we can go snorkeling at Honaunau Bay, where there is a two-step entry into the ocean over lava rocks.
TIP: Honaunau Bay is one of the best snorkeling spots on the Big Island.
For those who haven’t swam with turtles yet, here’s your chance to make up for it. Add in the beautiful underwater world with corals and fish, and it’s a perfect experience. In the afternoon, we hear from our new buddy Alex. In the meantime, he managed to visit Hilo and the island’s highest mountain, Mauna Kea. We decide to stay together at Pineapple Park Kona in the town of Kealakekua. We’ve already ruled out camping, even though we had a permit for two days. We didn’t want to risk it due to the weather, so we unnecessarily lugged our tent and sleeping bags halfway around the world. Oh well, worse things have happened, lesson learned for the future 🙂 The friendly elderly gentleman managing the accommodation had no issue extending our stay by those two days. He assigned us two rooms, one with a bathroom and another without.
We planned to relax in the evening, but a bizarre idea popped into our heads to ask Alex to drive us to Mauna Kea in his car. Not only did he have a 4×4 vehicle, but he also knew the way as he had been there earlier that day. Mauna Kea is a 4205m tall dormant volcano, and when you consider its height from its base, it is the tallest mountain on Earth. It is one of the few peaks with a wide road accessible by cars, but only 4×4 vehicles are allowed, as getting towed would cost you a lot.
TIP: Rental companies are not permitted to allow ascents of Mauna Kea; the only options are at your own risk or a shared bus tour for $200.
During the ascent, a minimum half-hour acclimatization stop at the Visitors Centre is necessary. Be prepared for the cold at the summit; temperatures could be below freezing. Subjectively, we found it harder to breathe and experienced slight headaches. We walk past the observatory towards the absolute peak along a path. Wearing sneakers was not the best idea, as it was quite slippery on the frozen snow. The iron spike marking the exact summit reads 13796 feet, unbelievable.
While it’s arguably the best place for stargazing on Earth, when every part of your body is freezing and breathing is difficult, it’s hard to truly enjoy it. Huge thanks to Alex, who was not only a superb driver but also played mystical music during the trip, creating a spooky atmosphere as we ascended towards the heavens. We return sometime past midnight and realize that today we accomplished an extraordinary feat. It’s amazing how much you can do in a single day.
Kealakekua Bay and Maniniowali Beach
This time, our accommodation doesn’t include breakfast, so we make some instant noodles in the shared kitchen. We have a quick breakfast and then head a short distance from our lodging to Kealakekua Bay. Originally planning to hike to the James Cook Monument, we instead rent two kayaks to paddle there. The distance was around 1.5km, and there were a few boats anchored near the monument where people were snorkeling. Dolphins can also be seen here, but we weren’t lucky enough. We take photos with the large white monument from 1874 and then go snorkeling. The descent into the water was quite steep, and we had to be cautious of sea urchins. I would rate the snorkeling experience as average. In the afternoon, we plan to visit Kua Bay, also known as Maniniowali Beach, part of the Kekaha Kai State Park.And right here are the most beautiful beaches of the island. Recently, an access road with a parking lot was built here. Maniniowali boasts a beautiful azure water color combined with white sand. Let’s go for a swim in that beauty and then just lay on the blanket. We say goodbye to our buddy Alex, who is off to explore the beauties of Oahu. The evening is all about Bacardi. Besides, we had some company in the room, Danielita and Tomas the cockroach, and me, for a change, a 15cm lizard. Awesome, it’s going to be some sleep. All in all, Sunday is behind us.
Kahaluu Beach Park and Kukio Beach
We start the day with snorkeling at Kahaluu Beach Park. An ideal spot for beginners like me. Long shallow water with no waves and countless little fish and corals. One even tried to bite Tomas’ leg. Right after, they announced over the loudspeaker not to feed the fish, as they become aggressive afterwards 🙂 Little turtles were sunbathing by the shore. We move north to another beach, White Sands Beach. A small beach right by the road with white sand and azure water. We swam a bit and now let’s head to a restaurant for a bite. The next plan was the beach Kikaua Beach, but at the entrance, they told us the beach was full, so we try the neighboring Kukio Beach. There we had a bit more luck and got a Beach Pass. The entry to the water was a bit hindered by omnipresent rocks, so you won’t swim much on this beach. We found ourselves in the 5-star resort Hualalai Four Seasons, probably the restricted entry with cards is due to that. The whole environment was beautifully landscaped, not to mention those villas that were there. They must have invested huge amounts here. We walked a bit to the end of the beach to enjoy the surroundings even more. On the way home, Tomas played snake with the car, and the black Lincoln behind us happily joined. Hawaiians really have a sense of humor. In the evening, we went to check out the town of Kona. We strolled along the street by the shore and were intrigued by the Bubba Gump restaurant, after all, who wouldn’t know Forrest Gump. Let’s sit down for a mixed drink and a nice dinner.
Kehaka Kei State Park with the magnificent Makalawena Beach
We wake up at 6:00 to head out for a beach-hopping hike as early as possible. We park the car at the beginning of Kehaka Kei State Park. The ramp was still closed, so we could realistically be the first visitors to these hard-to-reach beaches. The road is gravelly, and all around there are lava rocks with no sign of greenery. If you don’t have a 4×4 car, I wouldn’t risk it.
After about 40 minutes, we arrive at Mahaiula Beach and the first phase of our journey is behind us. The beach is empty, just us and wild goats 🙂 We continue on, because if we give up now, no one will get us out of here. The goats followed us for a while, but then they disappeared without a trace. We walk along the beach and then along a rocky path, reassuring ourselves that we will soon be there. You had to be very careful on those lava rocks, especially in sandals. The drops of sweat were well deserved, as the green Makalawena Beach gradually emerges in front of us.
TIP: According to us, Makalawena Beach is the most beautiful beach on the island.
The water is crystal clear, like when you fill up a bathtub. Here we meet the first people, and we realize that there must be a 4×4 road somewhere on the other side. We find a shady spot, as the sun is scorching hot. We inflate a tire and decide to play some frisbee. It’s an amazing little beach where you can relax all day. However, we have other plans.
On the way back, we managed to hitch a ride in a Jeep, and a young guy takes us in the back. I haven’t hitchhiked properly in a long time. Heading north to Hapuna Beach. It’s a wide beach with absolutely no chance of hiding in the shade. No wonder we got quite sunburned that day. We end today’s beach day at Waialea Bay Beach. White sand, black rocks at the water’s edge, and ubiquitous trees characterize this swimming spot. The beach is also known as 69, but not for the reason that would first come to mind.
Waipio Valley and Northern Beaches
The car is put to the test right in the morning, as we are heading to the northwest of the island to Waipio Valley. Upon entering the valley, the attendant guides us that we must park the car as it’s only accessible by 4×4 from there on. We were also informed that it hadn’t rained here for a long time, so the waterfalls are dried up. By the way, these were supposed to be the highest waterfalls on the island. We stop at the Waipio Lookout sign, which offers one of the most beautiful views of the entire valley. We descend steeply down the path and firmly believe that we will hitch a ride back. A little hiking won’t hurt; we are already quite warmed up. At the crossroads, we turn right towards the beach. It’s not suitable for swimming, but you can admire the black sand and beautiful views. We managed to hitch a ride back in a Jeep right at the beginning of the ascent, saving both time and our legs. Originally, we also wanted to visit Pololu Valley, although it was just a short drive north of Waipio Valley on the map, the path leads there in a good curve.
We head back and make our way to Mauna Kea Beach (Kaunaoa Bay). On paper, it was supposed to be one of the best beaches on the Big Island, but it didn’t stand out that much to us. It’s located in the Mauna Kea resort, so entrance is only allowed with a beach pass. We swim, relax on the beach, and then move to Spencer Beach Park. We were planning to camp there, so we went to check it out. Surprisingly, it was a proper campsite this time. We also brought a gas stove with us, so it was finally time to test it out. We bought the fuel back in Hilo. You can only use it in campsites that have designated grills for that purpose. So, another item that made it halfway around the globe and was used symbolically at least once. On the way back home, we saw a double rainbow, something unbelievable. The road is lined with lava rocks with various messages made out of white stones. The inscription “SLOVAKIA” or “NOMADS” didn’t take long to appear. This is essentially our farewell to the Big Island; tomorrow, we’ll head back to Oahu.
