Romantic island in the middle of the Indian Ocean, turquoise lagoon, private beach with white sand, pristine underwater coral world, green palm jungle, and authentic Muslim population. The Maldives paradise consists of over a thousand small islands, of which more than 200 are inhabited. Just choose your own and hurry, because they may not exist anymore by 2050.
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Contents
Day 1 – Fulhadhoo Paradise Island
Day 2 – Engagement during a romantic dinner
Day 3 – Turtles and authentic local life
Day 4 – Fishing at sunrise
Day 5 – Transfer to Fehendhoo Island
Day 1 – Fulhadhoo Paradise Island
We will arrive at Velana International Airport in Male around 7:00 local time. During the flight, we will fill out an immigration card declaring that we are not importing any valuables. Alcohol is strictly prohibited, but if found, it’s not a big deal – they will just confiscate it and return it to you upon departure. When entering the country, you will be asked for the name of your hotel at the airport, so it’s good to have your reservation confirmation with you. We booked our accommodation at 3 Hearts Guesthouse on Fulhadhoo Island through Wild Maldives agency, which offered us the best deal and arranged everything from airport pickup, optional excursions, to comprehensive answers to our questions. We did not have to pay any advance deposit. As for dining, we opted for a full-board meal plan because there aren’t many other dining options on the island.
Why Did We Choose Fulhadhoo Island?
- Excellent guesthouse reviews – currently there are four guesthouses on the island, with the highest ratings going to 3 Hearts Guesthouse and Azoush Tourist Guesthouse.
- Majority of the island is natural – two-thirds of the island is jungle, with a large white bikini beach and less waste management issues.
- Unspoiled island – no local ferries, speedboats only operate 3 times a week to the nearby island of Goidhoo.
- Privacy – we didn’t want overcrowded islands like Maafushi, popular with backpackers, which has a prison and waste disposal problems.
After the checks, we were a bit stressed. Our airport escort was somehow delayed, and we couldn’t get through to the guesthouse contact number either. But you don’t have to worry, they surely haven’t forgotten about you – Maldivians just have time for everything. At that moment, we decided that we knew the way and went to Male on our own. We tried to buy a ticket for the boat, which costs 1 USD, but they didn’t have change from 50 USD. A young guy offered to pay for our tickets selflessly. People here are just amazing.
During the boat trip to Male, I received a message from our host Mr. Simbe, that we should wait at the port in Male. Shortly after, I also received a message from a guy named Hassan, saying he would be at the port in 10 minutes, so we were already at ease. Along with him, two Russian girls arrived, and that’s when we realized we were all new tourists. Transport to Fulhadhoo island is a bit more complicated, as the speedboat only runs 3 times a week – on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at the same time, 9:00. In case of bad weather, the only alternative is by air to Dharavandhoo island and then by private transfer, costing over 200 USD.
Sailing from Male – Goidhoo – Fulhadhoo
The speedboat departs from the port at the opposite end of Male, so Hassan flagged down a taxi for our transfer. And not just any taxi – a three-wheeler with a basket, without any seats, so we were standing on the basket. We navigate the narrow streets of Male and pass by a football stadium in the middle of the city. It’s funny, especially when we have to dodge branches. Finally, we have about half an hour at the port. Together, 4 tourists and approximately 30 locals wait. They load our baggage first, then a lady with a broken leg, followed by us and finally the locals.
The journey was supposed to take two hours, but unfortunately, the boat broke down. The engine wouldn’t start, and we were stuck near the luxurious Baros resort. We wait to see what will happen. And since we weren’t given any official information, just looked for new tools, I messaged Simbe about our situation. After some time, a boat arrived with a replacement cable. There was no transfer to another boat.
After this repair, the journey feels endless even though the speedboat is at full throttle. Combined with the choppy waves, small children start to feel sick. At first, we wondered why they didn’t distribute water on such a long journey, but then we understood that the locals were observing Ramadan. After about 4 hours, we finally arrived at Goidhoo island. Here, the charismatic Mr. Simbe is already waiting for us. Along with his helpers, they transport us by a small boat to the destination island Fulhadhoo. During the transfer, we enjoy beautiful views of the islands Fehendhoo and Fulhadhoo in the turquoise lagoon.
We disembark at the main port in the south, and our luggage is loaded onto a trolley. The welcome at the guesthouse by Elvira and Simbe is very warm; they prepare a coconut, toasts, and tiny bananas for us. We head to check-in and take a much-needed shower.
Fulhadhoo in numbers:
The island of Fulhadhoo has approximately 300 inhabitants and is divided into a smaller part for locals on the right and a larger tourist area on the left. This is where the bikini beaches come from. In the local neighborhood, men can wear regular swim trunks and a t-shirt, but women should have their shoulders and knees covered. Electricity for the entire island is generated by a diesel generator. The supply boat comes once a week to Goidhoo, or locals usually use the regular ferry, which we also took. By their standards, it is an expensive matter, as the average salary is around 4000-5000 MVR (260-330 USD) and the boat costs around 30 USD.
After a short rest, we head into the jungle to explore this paradise. The palm jungle has one main path and side paths to smaller beaches. We recommend bringing insect repellent because of mosquitoes. It can also be bought at a local store. The main beach is on the south and stretches along the entire island. We walk to the end of the island, but we didn’t meet a soul there. We feel like we have the whole island to ourselves. Well, us and countless crabs 🙂 A minor downside is that at the end of the island, you will find garbage such as plastic and glass bottles. Due to the nature of a coral island, you will only experience mild waves. The large 2-3 meter waves break on the coral reef around the entire atoll.
On the way back, we stop at our beach, which we recognized by the sunbeds with the 3 hearts logo. During the first dive, there are plenty of corals in the water, but visibility is rather average. A typical Maldivian dinner consists of soup, fish, side dish, and fruit. It was prepared for us by a chef from the Philippines. The first acclimatization day is behind us, and we fall asleep quite exhausted.
Day 2 – Engaged during a romantic dinner
Our first breakfast consists of sausages, omelette, jam, and fruit. It wouldn’t be complete without a sweet banana shake and water. Another traditional delicacy is the great tuna spread mas huni, which we will definitely make at home too. It consists of grated coconut, tuna in oil, onion, lime, and is served with freshly baked roshi flatbreads. Our first coral reef snorkeling trip is scheduled for 8:00.
Mr. Simbe personally accompanies us on optional trips, along with a skilled young helmsman. Our boat is parked on the northern side of the island, where locals also park their boats. Besides them, the transportation means here are scooters or motorcycles. So far, we haven’t met anyone on bicycles. In the shallows on the way out, we immediately spotted a turtle and a small stingray during our first ride. The snorkeling spot is to the left of Fulhadhoo towards the uninhabited island of Innafushi.
It’s great that Simbe snorkels with us and educates us about the fish and corals. We saw parrotfish, butterfly fish, sergeant major fish, and others. Among the corals, we saw rose coral, for example. Overall, we snorkel for about half an hour and then board the boat back. On our way home, we are dropped off at our beach with the sunbeds. We take some shots, do some snorkeling, and then relax. We could time our lunches according to our wishes. Today, we have fish with noodles and vegetables.
In the afternoon, we are going to stretch out on our beach. Three loungers are in the shade under a shelter made of palm leaves, two in the sun, just pick your spot. We are alone on the whole beach again, so we tidy it up a bit from the twigs 🙂 Snorkeling is possible right at the first corals, but the water was quite murky. I dare to try a waterproof case from eBay, but only with an old iPhone. It survived, but due to the murky water, I didn’t manage to take any decent photos. Afterwards, I swam towards the other corals when suddenly my whole back started itching. Considering the stripe across my back, something must have brushed against me, and if I saw correctly, there was a large stingray moving on the bottom. I don’t know what it was, but the fact is, I probably swam the fastest hundred meters of my life.
Engagement
We head back through the jungle towards home, as tonight a romantic beach dinner is planned. The preparations are coming to an end, and since I wanted to combine it with the engagement ring ceremony, there was a bit of stress involved. It is 6:30 PM, and Elvira leads us to the ceremonial table on the beach. Romance by candlelight and a heart made of flowers can begin. The special menu consists of creamy soup, fish, pancakes, and other side dishes.
Subsequently, after a great and undisturbed candlelit dinner with the sound of the sea, I approach the important point of this evening – the engagement. Secretly, I hoped that the answer to my question would be positive, and it truly was…. Evka said yes 🙂 I present the engagement ring, we take some great photos, and enjoy these beautiful moments together in this splendid place. I have nothing more to add to today’s rich program. And you won’t get bored in the Maldives.
Day 3 – Turtles and authentic local life
From this morning, we have introduced the tradition of early jungle runs to the end of the island. So keep reading to see how long we lasted with this resolution. The 2.5 km route is just right for a start. We recommend starting no later than 6:30, otherwise you will end up like us, all sweaty. As runners, we are apparently the only ones here, as locals prefer to ride motorbikes through the jungle. Some greet us, some are more shy, especially the women.
After the run, we take a quick shower and breakfast because today’s optional trip is scheduled for 7:30. Turtle snorkeling takes place near Goidhoo island. During the boat ride, we also spotted dolphins. We experienced snorkeling about 100 times better than yesterday. Right at the beginning, we saw a half-meter barracuda and the first tiny turtle. The water clarity at this spot is like in an aquarium. Countless schools of fish and corals. In total, we saw 6 turtles, 2 of them were large. One was even sleeping on the seabed and only woke up when Simbe knocked on its shell 🙂 Thumbs up for this spot. The whole trip lasted about 2 hours today.
In the afternoon, we dressed up for a walk among the locals. We are looking for all the other accommodations on the island – Fulhadhoo Inn, Azoush Tourist Guesthouse, and Vilu Beach. Local shops are small and you can only find basic groceries there. What surprised us a bit was that they store eggs on shelves without refrigeration. The mosquito spray costs 25-30 MVR. We pay in dollars and the expenditure is in Maldivian Rufiyaa. Watch out for the exchange rate; they often give you an unfavorable 1:10 rate.
We continue walking through the alleys to the end of the island, where there is a beautiful palm avenue. What was less beautiful was the dump on the left side, and it seems that they regularly burn the garbage. The eastern tip of the island also smells of waste, and locals barely bathe there. We didn’t see them bathing at all. Along the alley, we meet a Maldivian chicken. Small children frolic along the shore, and they were very happy when we took photos with them. There is one hospital and one mosque on the island, which is more like a home than a typical minaret.
After the walk, we go for a swim on our beach. It’s not the best time for snorkeling now. An unpleasant surprise was when we saw the sea washing out at least a 100-kilo concrete pillar. Two of us rolled it onto the shore to prevent any injuries. In the evening, we just relax. We have to go to bed early because of tomorrow’s schedule.
Day 4 – Sunrise fishing
Maldivian fishing was scheduled by Simbe at 5:45. Even though it’s early in the morning, make sure to apply sunscreen because today we managed to get burnt for the first time. Two Russian girls are joining us. Everyone receives a fishing rod, but not the classic one with a reel, instead, it’s a plastic ring with nylon wrapped around and a hook with a fake fish bait. We cast the bait into the water and fish while sailing towards Goidhoo Island. The first jackfish doesn’t keep us waiting for long.
Gradually, we also try using two floats, which can adjust the direction better than our straight lines. We suspect that the fish are being scared away in the direction of the engine, but eventually, we succeed and each catch a jackfish. On our way back, we notice a jumping manta ray. In the Goidhoo atoll, there are supposedly 3 spots for observing these giant yet harmless creatures.
The second round of fishing involved using bait from two previously caught fish on the fishing rods. However, this time the small fish only ate the fillets, and we caught nothing. Nonetheless, it was still an experience, and our catches will be grilled for dinner. On the way back, we ask Simbe to sail closer to the islands so we could take some amazing photos by the shallows.Fehendhoo and Fulhadhoo.
After a three-hour fishing trip, we are looking forward to a well-deserved breakfast. Afterwards, we plan to relax on the beach again.
TIP: Around noon, the water is the brightest, and today I managed to capture the most beautiful shots.
Be careful not to get sunburned too quickly. Our full board accommodation at least forces us not to stay too long in the strongest sun. Today, the visibility of corals and fish on our beach is good. After the experience of the day before yesterday, we snorkel more cautiously. At the end of the day, we will enjoy the sunset at the end of the island.
Maldivians have sunny weather all year round from around 6 am to 6 pm. After 6 pm, it quickly gets dark, and walking through the dark jungle is no longer as much fun. Simbe brought us the grilled fish we caught this morning in a foil. It is nicely sliced and tastes fantastic. The last evening is behind us, and tomorrow we are moving to the neighboring island of Fehendhoo.
Day 5 – Transfer to Fehendhoo Island
We start the day with a morning run. It was worth it because during the early tide, you will see white tongues at the end of the island, which you wouldn’t see otherwise. If you think mosquitoes can’t bite you during the run, they can. Upon return, a quick shower, breakfast, and time to pack. Before leaving, we go to buy another mosquito spray. We are scheduled to leave for Fehendhoo Island around 11, so we still have time to say goodbye to our beautiful turquoise beach.
As for the sand, if you collect samples like us, you can, we have tried it. Shells and washed-up coral bits are prohibited, but even those passed through in our large luggage. There aren’t many shells here, you are more likely to find a crab shell. We say goodbye to Simbe, Elvira, and outside, Naeem from Fehendhoo Island is already waiting for us. Secretly, we hoped to go through the lagoon between Fulhadhoo and Fehendhoo islands, and our wish came true. Thanks to this, I was able to take such photos that I am still amazed by 🙂
