Do you know where the paradise on Earth is located? We found one on our journeys. It’s the exotic Seychelles, and you can explore the trio of main islands with us – the lush Mahé, the palm-lined Praslin, and the enchanting La Digue. Tropical climate, azure beaches, towering mountains, rainforests, stunning underwater world – all of this is now accessible even for ordinary mortals thanks to discounted flights. Our 6-member expedition managed to get tickets from Vienna for 504€ with Ethiopian Airlines.
Detailed Google map with attractions
Contents
Day 1 – Beau Vallon
Day 2 – Excursion to Anse Major and North Beach
Day 3 – Morne Blanc and Port Launay
Day 4 – Anse Intendance and surroundings
Day 5 – Anse Royale and the east coast
Day 1 – Beau Vallon
Let’s start by saying that we shouldn’t praise the airline too much, as be prepared that your flight might be moved to a different date. Instead of the original schedule from the 12th to the 22nd of November, we were offered a flight from the 13th to the 24th of November. A bit stressful start, but who would give up such exoticism right before the departure. Consequently, we had to rearrange our accommodations, leading to a ratio of nights as 5:2:3 (Mahé: Praslin: La Digue). We are departing from Vienna on Friday the 13th at 23:20, and we trust that everything will go smoothly. During takeoff, we notice differences compared to our previous flights. The airplane is so silent that you can’t tell if you are still on the ground or already in the air, the wings curve more upwards, the windows are twice as large, and the seats are much more comfortable, with good headrests. After studying the materials, I realize that we are sitting in the legendary Dreamliner. During the 5000km long flight, we are served warm meals twice, so we are getting more and more comfortable. The airport in Addis Ababa is one big hall, and you won’t be allowed through security control until an hour before the flight. Until then, you can explore half-emptied shops or lie down on leather recliners. A specialty of this airport was the continuous shifting. First, they move us from one end of the hall to the other during the security check, and our gate changes unexpectedly, so we get a bit of exercise included. We look forward more to the second flight Addis Ababa – Mahé. Ethiopia looks interesting from a bird’s eye view, colorful buildings like Lego, diverse green fields, and then just desert. We pass the last mainland in Somalia and then only the endless Indian Ocean and the wait for the paradise islands.
During the flight, we fill out two questionnaires regarding the purpose of our trip, accommodation addresses, and a set of questions about symptoms in the last 30 days, allergies, sore throat, headache, temperature. We answered “no” everywhere, so we can have peace, admit it, who hasn’t had a headache in the last month 🙂 After over 3 hours of flight, Ile du Nord and Silhouette Island are the first to appear. The route continues over the northern part of Mahé, and during landing, you can see the islands Sainte Anne and Cerf on the left side. We were very concerned about the weather because the forecast predicted rain for the entire 10 days, but in the end, it’s only occasional showers about 2 times during the stay. Upon exiting the plane, we are greeted by the sun and true tropical air.
**TIP:** Have your accommodation materials ready for the passport control, even when traveling in a group. They will ask for it from each member; otherwise, they won’t let you into the Seychelles.
First, we submit the questionnaires at one place where they also take your photo, and then follows questioning about accommodation. They verify the reservation even by phone. Everything went smoothly, and we can go sort out the car rental. We booked the car through the website economycarrentals.com, and instead of the Kia Soul, we receive a Daihatsu Terios. Extra insurance is paid on-site, even though we thought it was included in the price. We tried writing to several car rentals, but it’s challenging to find a car for more than 5 people. We agreed to take it in two shifts from the airport and then use the bus for the following days.
**Here are some practical information:**
- During our visit, the exchange rate was approximately 1€ = 14SCR (Seychellois Rupee). For a rough estimate of the card rate conversion, I recommend using the Visa Travel Tools app.
- You won’t get Orange internet while roaming because the roaming partner does not have 3G coverage, 99% of Wi-Fi networks are password protected, so the only alternative is a SIM card from Cable & Wireless, a data package of 2300MB costs 499SCR (approximately 35€).
- Time difference is +3 hours, driving is on the left, and you need an adapter for English sockets or a little trick (if you insert, for example, a piece of wooden dowel into the top hole, the shutters on the horizontal ones will open and you can use a Slovak plug).
A slightly unpleasant experience was at the airport ATM when I couldn’t withdraw 6000SCR (428€). The money was deducted from my account, so I had no choice but to call the helpline and file a complaint. Fortunately, everything turned out well, and the money was refunded within a week along with interest due to the unfavorable exchange rate 🙂 The first batch of people and luggage are getting into the car, heading towards Beau Vallon Apartments. It must be said that the terrain is truly hilly, and even short distances can take a long time. We appreciate our choice of an SUV and, of course, an automatic, which is essential for left-hand driving. If you don’t feel comfortable driving, you must transfer at the main station in Victoria.
TIP: Riding the bus around the whole island costs a constant 5SCR and is a truly thrilling experience, the schedule can be found on the Seychelles public transport corporation website.
Accommodation for 20€/night in the area of Beau Vallon is one of the lowest prices on the entire Mahé. Of course, there is no air conditioning, but it is manageable with fans. Beau Vallon Apartments are located to the right of the police station. We were given 3 separate apartments, and the gorilla only wanted cash from us, either euros or rupees. We only spoke with the actual boss over the phone. By the time we all settled in and unpacked, it was starting to get dark. The sunlight in November is usually from 6:00 to 18:00. We have a supermarket and ATM right across from the accommodation. Groceries are 2-3 times more expensive than at home, and card payments are accepted. A bottle of water or bread costs around 30SCR. We head out for an evening stroll along the coast and pack swimsuits just in case. It’s a bit of a detour on the main road, but you can’t miss Beau Vallon beach. The light from the nearby restaurant illuminates the water, so we dared to venture into the sea without further inspection. The seabed is smooth, the water is very clean and warm, with a pleasant water temperature of 27-28°C in November. Before bed, we strengthen ourselves with duty-free tullamore.
Day 2 – Hike to Anse Major and North Beach
We wake up to the first tropical morning. I bravely set my alarm for 7:00 to be able to have a morning swim in the ocean. Our Beau Vallon beach is only about a 5-minute walk away, and I finally see it in daylight. Surprisingly, I have it all to myself, and over time, we realize that the Seychelles are not crowded with tourists as one might think. You won’t find any souvenir vendors on the beach here. The water is transparent with a hint of azure color, bordered by green hills on both sides. Around half past eight, we set off for the main highlight of today – a hike to the Anse Major beach. By the way, “anse” means bay in French and every beach has it in its name. Originally we planned to do it in the morning, but if you want to enjoy it, it’s a day trip. Full of excitement, we start trekking from our accommodation along Bel Ombre Road. The endless cycle of sweating can begin 🙂
TIP: Bring plenty of drinking water and wear sturdier shoes than flip-flops for the hike.
One of the first things we noticed is that there aren’t many sidewalks in Beau Vallon, and you’ll only find trash bins sporadically. Beautiful green mountains rise on the left side, while on the right, we head to Beau Vallon beach. We pass by a Roman Catholic church where a first holy communion is taking place. Everywhere is laid back, and no one is in a hurry, that’s our first impression of the Seychelles. Along the road, the azure ocean begins to unfold, leading to a small harbor. At the end of the road is the final stop of bus number 21 if you want to take a ride and save half an hour. We walked all the way and took the bus back later. From the final stop, there’s a bit of uphill asphalt road, and then the real hiking begins. Be prepared to be asked for money for each attraction. For example, there’s an orange house where you can take a photo with a bat. If Seychelles were volcanic islands, I would say there are lava fields at the end of the asphalt, but they were probably huge granite boulders. Breathtaking views of the ocean, coastline, and tropical rainforest start right there. You’ll feel like you’re in the real untamed jungle, waiting for the first little animal to come out. We encountered a snake and lots of spiders peacefully in their webs. In the air, you can see many birds and bats flying around. Nothing life-threatening.
Quote of the day: “Maybe a monkey…” – remarked a passing tourist in the distance seeing Zuzka screaming after encountering a spider.
A little past this viewpoint is a drinking fountain with potable water. They must have known why they placed it there because on the way back, it was our last salvation; we underestimated the water a bit. After about an hour and a half of hiking, we arrive at the paradise beach of Anse Major. Those sweat drops were worth it; we are almost alone here, and even a policeman is guarding our belongings. When we talked to him, he told us there are no dangerous animals here, no crime, and according to him, the most beautiful place is Port Launay (“Polony”). I apply Daylong SPF 25 and head into the water. The beach consists of two bays separated by rocks. To cross to the second bay, you have to wade through or jump over a drainage channel.
TIP: The second bay has a small clean cooling pool as a bonus, which we haven’t seen anywhere else in the Seychelles.
After this pool, the ocean will feel hot to you. In general, care must be taken not to lay under hanging coconuts. We spend about 3 hours here, and it’s truly difficult to leave this beautiful place. Gradually, however, we realize there are beautiful beaches here and even more beautiful ones 🙂 The way back passed quickly, and the mentioned spring saved us from dehydration. We stop at the first store to replenish energy and this time, we patiently wait for the bus home. We stop at the apartment to get our supplies and rest a bit after the challenging hike. Around 4 p.m., we board the bus heading north. The first adrenaline-inducing ride on the hills begins. The roads are narrow, and the driving is fast. Once we had a moment where the left wheel went over the curb in a left turn with a cliff on the left, of course. Despite that, there is supposedly a low accident rate here, so all the guardian angels must be watching over these drivers. We get off at North Beach.Called Carana Beach. It is a smaller bay where we had some fun in the waves. Nightfall is slowly approaching, but you won’t see the sunset from this beach. We leave under the moonlight, and the stars are clearly visible. While waiting for the bus, mosquitoes feast on us 🙂 Driving in the dark intensifies the adrenaline rush, so we surrender ourselves to the driver. The evening is filled with Seychellois rum Takamaka.
TIP: You can buy Takamaka cheapest in the duty-free zone; you can choose from coconut (25%), white (43%), and dark (43%) rum
Day 3 – Morne Blanc and Port Launay
This morning is cloudy, and it looks like rain. We pack our raincoats and split into two groups – four by car and two by bus. The original plan was to start hiking the Copolia Trail, but since it was pouring, we continued crossing the island. Get ready for mountainous terrain and sharp turns, so some driving experience would be helpful. We begin at Sauzier Waterfall near Port Launay, where you need to be ready for two payments. The first, a bit absurd 100SCR, is for crossing private land, and the second is for the guide by agreement, who will lead you to the waterfall in a few minutes. After rain, the stones and tree roots are very slippery, so caution is advised. You can swim or jump in the waterfall. On the way back, a local shows us native cinnamon. It’s clearing up slowly. Our next stop is the Tea Factory. We walk through the area, and when we inquire about a tour, it wasn’t possible this week. Regardless, it’s worth stopping here just for the views. A little higher, the road to the highest accessible point on Mahé, Morne Blanc (667m) begins.The hike leads through a breathtaking rainforest, with about half an hour of steep climbing and an elevation gain of around 300 meters. In that heat, not a single thread on you will remain dry, but the view at the end will leave you speechless. If you are lucky to have clear skies, you will have the surrounding beaches and islets right at your fingertips. From a bird’s eye view, we spied the island L’Islette, which looks like a postcard.
Returning back to the car, we stopped at a store to replenish water, fruits, and sweets. For these shorter distances, we risked fitting six people in the car. To reach the uninhabited island L’Islette, we had to wade through the water, so we put our electronics in waterproof cases.
TIP: Water shoes would come in handy here to avoid contact with sea worms 🙂
I left the towel and snorkeling gear on the shore, which turned out to be not the best idea since the tide came in, and the items suddenly disappeared. I could already imagine myself chasing them along the shore. It was one of the funnier episodes; the worst was the fate of my camera, which, after swimming to the island and getting wet hands, stopped functioning altogether. Honour to its memory after three years of service to globetrotters. But let’s get back to our island, perfect for cheesy holiday snapshots. There’s a hidden bar behind the rocks, but we didn’t let that disturb us at all. A gentleman took us back to the shore; he had arranged for a motorboat. Then came the mentioned chasing of items in the water. Luckily, we succeeded. We got back in the car and headed to Port Launay beach. According to articles, it’s an excellent spot for snorkeling, but we didn’t see many fish, not even near the rocks. Perhaps it was because it was getting late, the water was murky, or we just needed to know the right spot 🙂 If you want to shower, there’s one next to the beach at a hotel resort. For the journey back to the hotel, we had to split up, two by bus no. 13 and the rest by car. The bus only goes to Victoria Station, from where we arranged shuttle transport to our SUV.
Day 4 – Anse Intedance and Surroundings
This morning we started by attempting to buy tickets for a boat. It’s impossible to do so without passports, so we leave empty-handed, not knowing yet that tickets on site are significantly more expensive than online.
TIP: Boat tickets through the website seychellesbookings.com are cheaper by 10E
The sightseeing bus tour is reserved for the ladies today, and we are supposed to meet at one of the most beautiful beaches on paper, Anse Intendance. Across the island, there are two roads, one starting at Port Launay and the other gentler one beginning at Grande Anse. Today, we take the latter, and after a few bends, it’s worth stopping at the La Misere Viewpoint for a panoramic view of the western islands. You can even spot the artificial millionaire’s island Eden Island. If you buy a villa on this 116th island of Seychelles, you automatically gain citizenship 🙂 We continue along the winding roads until we reach the top and start descending to the other side of the island towards Grande Anse beach. You can capture beautiful photos on this beach, but you definitely shouldn’t swim here due to the big waves. A coastal drive on a sunny day will tempt you to stop at every single beach because it looks like the Maldives. We couldn’t resist until Anse and la Mouche, where we had to take a few shots. Enough with the stops, the ladies are waiting for us at Anse Intendance beach. From the main road, we descend on Intendance Road and then walk a bit on a dirt road. Next to the beach is one of the most luxurious resorts, Banyan Tree Seychelles.
TIP: The most picturesque spot for photography is on the left side of the beach between the granite rocks
In addition, you can go wild in the waves here, where it whirls you around like a washing machine. It’s not really suitable for swimming. Let’s relax on the blanket, have a quick lunch assembled by each, and then we can head to another beach.
According to rum, the beach Anse Takamaka is just behind the hill, but we’ll drive there so we don’t have to walk back. At the parking lot, you will be greeted by large tortoises, poor things imprisoned in an enclosure. A few meters from the shore by the rocks, you can snorkel and see schools of fish. Third in line is the beach Baie Lazare, where we lounged by the swings and reclining palm trees. The water here is shallow, more for a walk along the beach. To the right are the beautiful granite stones, which are strewn on practically every beach. Today we also planned to watch the sunset. The beach Petite Anse in the Four Seasons resort is perfect for that. You have to park your car outside the resort and you’ll only be allowed in on foot through the ramp. On the way down, you can admire the resort’s cottages perfectly incorporated into the tropical forest. The beach has a smooth bottom and incredibly pristine blue water. Add to that the sunset in the background with a romantic boat and bats flying overhead. If you smile nicely, maybe one of the resort vehicles will take you back. We managed to catch one towards the end of the road because they were shuttling people from dinner. In the evening, we sample Indian cuisine at Mahek restaurant on the Beau Vallon coast. The calamari and other dishes with a medium spiciness were top-notch. Dinner with a drink cost us around 20-30€ per person. Another piece of information for those hungry for the internet, the Wi-Fi password is provided only to guests staying at the corresponding hotel.
Quote of the day: “Peťo, you’re starting to be like Ethiopian women, a different hairstyle every day and a bigger behind with each passing day.”
Day 5 – Anse Royale and the East Coast
Breakfast on the terrace, morning coffee, and the fifth day in the Seychelles can begin. Today we split into two groups – Zuzka and the rest of the crew head towards the east coast. But before that, we stop for some fruits at Beau Vallon beach. Bananas, passion fruit, and mango are a must-have. We took the northern route of the island on La Gogua road to see this part of the island as well. In Victoria, we stop to buy tickets for the ferry, this time with passports. For the Mahe-Praslin route, there’s the monopoly of Cat Cocos, and for Praslin-La Digue, there’s Inter Island Ferry. As I mentioned before, you might be unpleasantly surprised by the price on-site. There used to be a cheaper alternative, the cargo ship Bella Seraphina, but due to an accident in 2014, it’s no longer allowed to carry passengers. Another option is to have a local buy the ticket for you at a fraction of the price, but we didn’t want to risk it. We get in the car and drive along the main road passing by Eden Island, the airport, and making sure not to miss the turn to Craft Village. This craft village with its colorful houses offers local products. We bought most of our souvenirs right there, and of course, you can also bargain. Our last shopping stop is the coast called Fairyland. It’s no wonder, as the name suggests, it’s a fairy-tale land. We walk to the end where there’s an abandoned building; if no one wants it, we’d gladly take it 🙂
Around noon, we arrive at the beach Anse Royale, which immediately took our breath away upon arrival. Beautiful azure water, rocks for snorkeling, and an island in the background.
TIP: The best snorkeling on Mahe we experienced right at Anse Royale near the rocks about 100m from the shore.
If we have been disappointed with fish so far, we made up for it here. It’s worth bringing a GoPro or underwater camera to capture the underwater beauty. With a bit of caution, snorkeling among the rocks is possible. Towards the island, there are strong currents, so you would rather stand still than swim there. The wedding photos we saw here also speak of the qualities of this beach. When we’ve had enough of relaxing and snorkeling, we move further south to the beach Anse Forbans. There are noticeably more sea urchins here and average snorkeling, but we discovered a cage with fish. The sun is slowly setting, so it’s time to choose the right spot. Ultimately, the choice of Anse Louis was made spontaneously during the drive. This smaller beach is within the Maia Luxury Resort. The cone-shaped cottages blend into nature so well that you almost don’t notice them, allowing you to enjoy the perfect sunset. The last evening on Mahe is approaching, and all that’s left for us is to pack up and prepare for an early morning boat ride.
