We could easily call Iceland the country of countries, as in one place you can experience New Zealand, the Canary Islands, Jordan, Ireland, Switzerland, and the High Tatras. You can see huge glaciers, snow-capped volcanoes, breathtaking waterfalls, black lava fields, but also green hills, deep canyons, and some may even experience the Northern Lights. And if you happen to miss a waterfall, don’t worry because there are around 10,000 of them here. As if that weren’t enough, on average, every four years, some volcano erupts, but it is rather rare to see flowing lava. In our article, you will learn how to plan the main route around the island and see the most.
Detail Google map with attractions
Detailed map of our points of interest[/caption>
Summary of prices per person (for 4 persons)
Flight cost: €150 | Flight duration: Vienna – Keflavik: 4h 25min (follow cheap flights)
Accommodation: €550 / 12 nights | Car + fuel: €250 | Entrance fees to attractions: €150 | Food and drinks: €300 | Total per person: €1400
Practical information
- Documents and roaming – Although Iceland is not in the EU, an identity card is sufficient, and roaming regulations apply here (calls, texts, and data as at home)
- Prices – be prepared for expensive restaurants (pizza or burger from €15, fish from €20, beer from €7), higher food prices (approximately 1.5-2 times higher than at home), as well as higher gasoline prices (diesel €1.60/l in 7/2021)
- Card payments – 100% of the trip could be paid by card, so there is no need to exchange any cash, just make sure you have a card that does not charge a currency conversion fee (we recommend Unicredit or Cetelem)
- Car rental – no international driving license is required when renting a car, check the windshield and definitely get insurance for gravel roads (gravel or dirt roads where stones can fly, we even had a bird bounce off the windshield). And be extra careful when opening doors in strong wind to avoid them being ripped off. Roads for 4×4 cars are marked on the map as F-roads, but a regular car is sufficient for the main route around the island.
- Transportation – the maximum speed on the entire island is 90 km/h, in towns 50 km/h, so be careful with fines, speed cameras are usually in towns – right after speed reduction signs
- Parking – parking lots are mostly free, we only paid at the national parks Thingvellir (750 ISK) and Skaftafell (750 ISK), at the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (700 ISK), and the crater Kerid (400 ISK)
- Hot springs – the cherry on top are the hot springs (search under names hot pots, hot springs, or swimming pools), where you can warm up every day, with temperatures around 38-42°C
- Nature baths – known as nature baths, are more luxurious paid hot springs, e.g., Myvatn Nature Baths or our tip – Vok Baths in the east of the island
- Northern Lights – usually visible from early September to March, of course, luck is also needed
Day 1 (26.6.) – Acclimatization in Reykjavik
Upon arrival in Iceland, we took a free PCR test and had to wait for approximately 5 hours at our first accommodation. Then there was complete freedom without masks even indoors, as Iceland had almost 0 cases at our time at the end of June. We reserved a car through booking.com with the company Procar. The car rental is just a few minutes from the airport, so they came to pick us up.
TIP: If there are four of you, be sure to rent a station wagon. For the main route around the island (Ring road) and short detours, a 4×4 is not necessary at all.Approximately 60% of the population lives in Reykjavik, but as a city it doesn’t have anything special, so you won’t need more than half a day. We visited the must-see spots – the rocket-shaped church Hallgrimskirkja, the opera Harpa Concert Hall, and had the best hot dog in town at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. The cheapest food chain on the island is Bonus, but be careful, as they usually close by 6 pm. Then there’s a more expensive 24-hour supermarket, 24 Extra. There are plenty of accommodations on offer in Reykjavik, choose based on reviews.
Day 2 (June 27) – Reykjadalur Stream and Golden Circle Tour
We will park the car at Reykjadalur Café. From there, it’s about a 4 km hike through rocky terrain with an elevation gain of about 300m. Along the way, we saw a bubbling spring, many sheep, and a pen with ponies. By the time you reach the stream, you’ll be appropriately sweaty, but that means you can quickly change into your swimsuit and jump into the hot water 🙂 As the locals warned us, the water at the end of the stream is too hot for bathing, so you’ll need to go downstream where it mixes with colder water. The experience in the cold, overcast weather and drizzle was perfect (even better with a can of beer). The way back is the same path towards the café.
Reykjadalur GPS route: https://www.strava.com/activities/5538111861
In the afternoon, we plan to see as much of the Golden Circle as possible. The first stop is the colorful Kerid crater. In the middle of nowhere, we find a huge volcanic crater that is around 3000 years old. At the bottom is a lake formed by rainwater with a depth of up to 55 meters. Thanks to minerals, the water turns into a beautiful turquoise color. There is a parking fee of 400 ISK, and you can walk up to the highest point in just a few minutes. You can also descend to the bottom of the crater.
The next stop is Skálholt Cathedral, which is relatively large compared to most Icelandic churches, with a span of approximately 30 meters from the entrance to the apse. The new cathedral was built between 1956 and 1963 as part of the millennial celebrations of the bishopric.
Faxi waterfall is the first waterfall we visit in Iceland. It’s impressive at first sight, but it will be nothing compared to the largest ones we’ll see in Iceland. Definitely a less touristy stop with a pleasant view.
Gullfoss waterfall (Golden Waterfall) is one of the most famous waterfalls in Iceland. It is located on the Hvítá river, flows through a 2-kilometer-long canyon, and the waterfall itself forms a double cascade, where the river gradually falls from a height of up to 20 meters. If you’re lucky with the weather and the sun comes out, you’ll see an incredible rainbow.
The last stop is the geysers Geysir and Strokkur. Strokkur (in Icelandic) or geyser (spouting spring) is the most active of all geysers, erupting water every 5-10 minutes up to 20 meters high. Geysir is the famous “sibling” of Strokkur, after which all geysers are named. Its activity is irregular and depends on the volcanic activity of the entire area. An earthquake in 2000 revived the geyser, causing it to reach a height of 122 meters for two days.
In the evening, we stay at the Miðdalskot Cottages.
Day 3 (June 28) – Thingvellir National Park and Plitvice Lakes
Early in the morning, we visit the Efstidalur farm, where you can enjoy excellent homemade ice cream. While eating, you can watch the cows that contributed to its making.
Thingvellir National Park was the last stop on our Golden Circle tour. Parking lots are located at both ends of the park, so you can choose which one suits your route better. We found Öxarárfoss Parking to be more convenient for us. The park is under the protection of UNESCO, and you can explore it in about an hour. The main path leads through a gorge with black rocks, which marks the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Interestingly, this location was used for filming scenes in Game of Thrones, and it’s also where Europe’s oldest parliament was established in 930. Before concluding your walk, don’t forget to visit the beautiful Öxarárfoss waterfall.
Thingvellir GPS route: https://www.strava.com/activities/5542800067
In the parks, as well as near the waterfalls, there are picnic tables where we have lunch from our own supplies. We need to recharge before the long journey northwest to our third accommodation.
Along the way, we also plan to visit the “Plitvice Lakes,” which is a mild detour but well worth it. The only setback was an off-road section on Route 52, where we could travel at most 20-30 km/h. Ultimately, it was the worst off-road experience of the entire trip.
The Hraunfossar waterfalls truly resemble those in Croatia. Water flows through holes in the rocks from a lava volcano that erupted beneath a glacier. Barnafossar is a smaller winding waterfall with beautifully blue water.We chose our third accommodation on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which according to reviews, encompasses all the elements of Iceland. Specifically, the Grundarfjörður Bed and Breakfast, located in the charming town of Grundarfjörður surrounded by mountain ranges. Even in the summer, we found ourselves amidst snow-capped hills.
Day 4 (June 29) – Beauties of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Our first stop is Iceland’s most photogenic mountain, Kirkjufell, standing at 463 meters and translated as Church Mountain. It is one of the famous Icelandic filming locations that featured in the renowned series Game of Thrones. The view of the mountain is enhanced by the beautiful cascading Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, where we were lucky to catch a glimpse of a rainbow. The parking lot for the waterfall is to the left of the main road.
The westernmost part of the peninsula is Snæfellsjökull National Park, where we visited the yellow-brown Skarðsvík beach and Saxhóll crater, accessible via elegant iron stairs. In the south, we admire the rock pinnacles of Lóndrangar and the stone bridges in Arnarstapi. From this town, we had an encounter with seagulls who attempted to peck at our heads and successfully marked almost everyone’s jackets with their droppings 🙂
Further along the way, we visit the intriguing black church Búðakirkja and Ytri Tunga beach, where seals were said to be present, though we were not fortunate enough to see any. The beach with fine golden sand is lined with grasses and low dunes.
At the end of the day, we move to our fourth accommodation, the Dæli Guesthouse. Here, I must highlight the outdoor hot tub, which we had all to ourselves. Additionally, not far from this accommodation is the Kolugljúfur canyon, which we visited early in the morning before departure.
Day 5 (June 30) – Seals at Hvitserkur and Godafoss Waterfall
The journey to the northern tip is off-road, but not as challenging as our experience on the third day. It was possible to go faster than 30km/h. Along the way, we stop at Borgarvirki fortress, which offers a panoramic view of the surroundings.Our main goal is to visit Hvítserkur, known as the troll of northwest Iceland, a 15-meter-high basalt stack rising from the bay. The rock has two holes at its base, giving it the appearance of a drinking dragon. Besides this attraction, there is a long black beach where you can observe seals. We saw both swimming and lazy seals basking on the shallows. There are several paths up and down from the beach, so choose wisely. It was quite windy on this beach, so it was not ideal for a long picnic. After spotting the territory of seagulls, we had respect for them after our last experience 🙂
On our way north, we have planned stops at the Víðimýri Church, reportedly the oldest turf church in Iceland, and the Glaumbær Farm & Museum, showcasing life in the 18th and 19th centuries. In the town of Akureyri, we stocked up on food at the Bónus supermarket.
A beautiful end to the day is the waterfall of the gods Godafoss, where we witnessed a truly divine sunset. Well, a partial one, since in summer you can still see the sun at midnight. From there, it’s just a short distance to the accommodation at Guesthouse Storu-Laugar, where we will stay for another 3 nights due to its convenient location for the entire Mývatn area. We greatly appreciate the homemade breakfast and the outdoor hot tub where the water comes directly from a thermal spring. Nearby is the Dalakofinn restaurant where we tried pizza, burgers, and fish.
Day 6 (July 1) – Around Lake Mývatn
There are plenty of attractions around Lake Mývatn, which we have set aside for the whole day. We start with a walk through the lava fields at Dimmuborgir (translated as dark castles). These are beautifully shaped formations of lava fields, volcanic caves, and rock formations resembling chambers where people could dwell. The routes are marked with colors, so you can choose from shorter loops to longer ones. We chose the medium 4 km loop in red.
GPS route for Dimmuborgir: https://www.strava.com/activities/5558264510
Near the main entrance, there is a café and a souvenir shop. From the parking lot, you can see craters on Lake Mývatn. A short distance from Dimmuborgir is the Grjótagjá cave, known from Game of Thrones, which contains a hot spring where bathing is prohibited. Above this cave is an extensive tectonic fault line.
Another stop is at the geothermal springs Hverir. You will be dazzled by the orange-brown clay and greeted by the smell of sulfur, rising steam, and bubbling mud. Walking among these natural wonders is an experience, making you feel like you’re on Mars for a moment. We continue by car north towards the Krafla geothermal power plant. With 33 wells, it is considered the largest Icelandic power plant, capable of producing 500 GWh of electricity annually with an installed capacity of 60 megawatts. In the crater of the volcano of the same name is the beautiful Víti Lake, filled with opaque warm blue mineral-rich water. Since it is at a higher altitude, the lake was still partly covered in snow in July.
We end the day with a relaxing time at the hot springs Mývatn Nature Baths. These are the second most famous baths after the Blue Lagoon, but less crowded and more affordable at 40€ compared to 60€+ at the Blue Lagoon. We bought our tickets on GetYourGuide for even cheaper, at 37€. The area consists of two large pools with warmer and cooler water, a bar in the water, and a separate hot tub where the water temperature was over 40°C. The baths are open until 10:00 PM in the summer, with the last entry at 9:30 PM.
Day 7 (2nd July) – Whales in Húsavík and the Diamond Circle Route
Iceland is one of the best places in Europe to observe whales, as almost 20 different species of whales can be found in the surrounding seas. The best place in Iceland is undoubtedly Húsavík. You have the highest chance to spot whales between June and August, which we can confirm from our experience. On one excursion, we saw around 10 humpback whales.
You have a choice of two main companies offering whale-watching tours – Gentle Giants and North Sailing. We went with Gentle Giants, who even gave us a 10% discount on site (you just have to ask for it :)) The main difference in price is whether you want a traditional boat to observe the whales from a distance of tens of meters, or a speedboat that races right next to the whale as soon as it’s spotted. The entire trip costs around 76€ per person for the traditional boat versus 140€ per person for the speedboat. The tour lasted approximately 3 hours, and the experience was indescribable. One of the TOP attractions in the whole of Iceland. Besides whales, you will also see cute puffins.
From Húsavík, we continue along the main road on the so-called Diamond Circle route. Even from the main road, you can spot whales; we marked a lookout point on Google Maps. After about an hour of driving, we stop at the magical glacial canyon Ásbyrgi. The horseshoe-shaped depression is part of the Vatnajökull National Park, measuring approximately 3.5 km in length and over 1 km in width. The canyon’s steep walls reach heights of up to 100 meters. At the end of the canyon, there is a green pond, and you can hike to a lookout point with a stunning view.
The next stop is at Hljóðaklettar – an area of basalt rock formations. Parking lot 1 was closed during our visit, so we had to go from parking lot 2, where the hike is much longer. Nevertheless, the rock formations are otherworldly, and the lava tunnel is worth visiting.
We end today’s adventurous day at the waterfall Dettifoss (falling waterfall). It is one of the mightiest waterfalls in Europe, and the water flow is truly deafening. We were truly awestruck. Dettifoss can be visited from the western side via an asphalt road, as in our case, or from the eastern side only via a gravel road, which may be passable only in the summer. On your way back from the waterfall, make sure to stop by and see the Selfoss waterfall as well.
Day 8 (July 3) – Vök Baths and Hengifoss Waterfall
The transfer from the north to the south was by far the longest day in the car, a little over 550 km. Nothing particularly caught our eye in the east enough to spend the night here, so we have all the important stops planned during this transfer. We all took turns driving 🙂
The first unplanned stop was at the Vök Baths. Unplanned because we found them completely by chance in a brochure, so we went to see if they looked as cool in person. They have only been open since 2019 and cost about €42, similar to the Mývatn Nature Baths. However, the experience was much greater. The entire bath area is a well-designed piece – one main pool with a bar and two smaller hexagonal pools built on the river. First, you warm up in water at 38-40°C and then descend by ladder to swim in the river at 10-12°C. Repeat the process until you feel blissful 🙂 If we had to choose again, we would prefer Vök over Mývatn (but probably both should be experienced :)).
Hengifoss Waterfall is the third highest in Iceland (128m) and overall the highest one we visited. This slightly challenging trek just under 5 km long can be done by anyone, and the waterfall to which this path leads is definitely worth it. The rocks over which Hengifoss Waterfall cascades will also reveal a huge piece of Iceland’s history, as the different colorful layers were formed by various volcanic eruptions since the island’s inception. On the way to Hengifoss Waterfall, you will also discover its smaller brother – Litlanesfoss, surrounded by basalt columns of volcanic origin.
GPS route to Hengifoss: https://www.strava.com/activities/5570192122
And now we have only the endless journey to the next accommodation ahead of us at Skyrhúsid Guest House. From sunny north, we move to foggy and rainy south. The landscape has changed at least 100 times today, and when we say we don’t stop for photos, we are still forced to stop because of the new scenery. Some nice stops included the Folaldafoss waterfall or the huge Red chair. We arrive at the accommodation shortly before midnight.
Day 9 (July 4) – Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon and Skaftafell National Park
Visiting Iceland and not seeing glaciers is like not being in Iceland at all. The glacier Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Iceland and the second largest in Europe. Thanks to its tongues extending into the valleys, you can see the glaciers up close.
Our accommodation is just a stone’s throw away from the beautiful glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón (translated as the lagoon of the glacial river). Icebergs break off from the glacier daily and drift into the lagoon, which then flows into the ocean. This natural spectacle is amazing because if you come in the morning and then in the evening, it looks different suddenly. Since the 1970s, the size of the lake has increased fourfold, and in 2009 it was reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland (over 284 m). We dared to wade into the water up to our knees. Well, what won’t a person do for a perfect photo 🙂 As an interesting fact, movies like Tomb Raider, James Bond’s Die Another Day, and Batman Begins were filmed here.
Another attraction connected to Jökulsárlón is the unique Diamond Beach Diamond Beach. Icebergs are washed ashore from the water onto the black beach in the form of smaller or larger “diamonds”. The contrast of black sand with diamond-like glowing icebergs provides you with perfect photographs. A slightly smaller glacial lagoon is Fjallsárlón, where we also stopped to visit.
Our second main destination is the Skaftafell National Park. Formerly a separate park, it is now part of the Vatnajökull National Park, where we can imagine an ideal place for camping. From the parking lot, you can hike on several shorter or longer hiking trails ranging from 1 hour to 10 hours. The easiest is a 4 km circuit to the waterfall Svartifoss, which we also chose. The black waterfall Svartifoss is formed by unique basalt columns resembling organ pipes. If you have enough time, stop by the Svínafellsjökull glacier, where you can hear the movement of glacial ice, and the movie Interstellar was filmed here as well.
GPS route to Svartifoss: https://www.strava.com/activities/5575416388
On the way to the accommodation, due to the great success, we stop again at Jökulsárlón. In the evening, we were fortunate to observe several seals swimming.
Day 10 (5.7.) – Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon and Reynisfjara Beach
Today we are moving to our final accommodation.Ásólfsskáli Cottage, where we will spend the remaining 3 nights of the trip. Along the way, we have several smaller attractions, of which we recommend the Stjórnarfoss waterfall, the basalt columns path Kirkjugólf, and the Scenic Green Lava Walk. You can take great photos at each of them. Among the larger stops, there is the stunning Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon (the canyon of the feather river), which takes about an hour round trip. The 100-meter deep canyon offers breathtaking views, especially when combined with the green surroundings. At the end of it, there is a waterfall visible from the viewing platform. In 2019, the canyon had to be closed after appearing in Justin Bieber’s music video “I’ll Show You.”
GPS route to Fjaðrárgljúfur: https://www.strava.com/activities/5578720637
In the town of Vik, we replenish our food supplies at Kronan supermarket. Vik is also the southernmost point of Iceland, and at this cape lies the most famous black sand beach with basalt columns known as Reynisfjara Beach. It can be visited from the east of Vik, where it is known as the Black Sand Beach, or from the more touristy western side, which offers better photo opportunities. Along the beach, there is a mystical sea cave and a cliff of basalt columns, a popular photo spot. The beach is also known for its dangerously large waves, which have claimed several lives, as warned by a sign. On the opposite side of the beach, you’ll find the Dyrhólaey viewpoint. Access to the lighthouse requires a 4×4 vehicle.
The accommodation Ásólfsskáli Cottage is located on a family farm in beautiful nature with many domestic animals. You’ll have your own cottage with an outdoor hot tub and plenty of privacy in nature. While bathing, you’ll be accompanied by a playful dog to whom we had to constantly throw rocks. A forest road leads from the cottage across the entire valley with stunning views. This accommodation was definitely the icing on the cake.
Day 11 (July 6) – Sólheimajökull Glacier, Skógafoss Waterfall, and Seljavellir Pool
From the easily accessible glaciers, we visit the Sólheimajökull Glacier, which is at risk of completely melting due to global warming. Icelandic students annually measure a loss of several tens of meters here. The glacier stretches for 11 km in length and its width varies from 1-2 km in different parts. The characteristic black coating is formed from ash from volcanic eruptions. You can only climb onto the glacier as part of an expedition, where you need to rent special equipment such as crampons, a helmet, and ice axes. We opt for a walk to a point where we can touch the glacier and witness it melting with falling droplets.
GPS route to Sólheimajökull: https://www.strava.com/activities/5584147231
Skógafoss, or the forest waterfall, is one of the largest waterfalls in the country, with a width of 25 meters and a drop of 60 meters. On sunny days, a simple or double rainbow is usually visible, though we weren’t lucky enough to see it. The waterfall has appeared in several film shots, including the movie Thor: The Dark World and the series Game of Thrones. To the right of the waterfall, you’ll find iron stairs that allow you to view it from different angles and even from the top. The trail continues along the river, where you’ll encounter more waterfalls like Steinbogafoss and Femri-Fellsfoss until you’ve had enough 🙂The Seljavallalaug pool from 1923 is the oldest thermal pool in Iceland, right beneath the Eyjafjallajökull volcano. It has maintained its authenticity to this day, as you might hesitate to enter the changing room and find green algae floating in the water. But no need to worry, the pool is reportedly cleaned every summer. The water has a pleasant temperature overall, as the hot spring is only in one corner. And swimming in the mountains under a volcano that was still active in 2010 is not an experience you have every day.
GPS route to the pool: https://www.strava.com/activities/5585746859
Day 12 (7.7.) – Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui Waterfalls
On the last day, we visited the Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui waterfalls, which are located close to each other. You only need to pay for parking at the first one, so if you want to save some money, park at the other and walk over.
Seljalandsfoss or the waterfall of the selling land is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Iceland. It is fed by the Seljaland River from the ice cap of the Eyjafjallajokull volcano and drops from cliffs at a height of 60 meters. What makes it unique is that you can actually walk behind the falling water, providing a completely new perspective and an incredible experience. The waterfall even appeared in Justin Bieber’s music video – I’ll Show You.
Gljúfrabúi is a lesser-known waterfall and is not visible from the road as it falls into a cave. To reach it, you have to walk along the river where a path made of rocks leads you there. You’ll find yourself right under the waterfall, and you definitely won’t leave there dry, but the experience is worth it. If you haven’t tried waterproof clothing yet, this is a great opportunity 🙂
In conclusion, Iceland captivates with its wildlife, untouched nature, majesty, diversity, cleanliness, steaming land and water, glaciers, and vibrancy. We now understand why people say: It can’t be fully described; it must be experienced 🙂
