Beautiful and dangerous. This is how the islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, and Koh Tao in the Gulf of Thailand can be characterized. The trio of the most famous islands is complemented by the marine national park Ang Thong National Park. You can read about how to rent a scooter, arrange a boat trip around the island, get a broken leg treated, or experience New Year’s Eve on one of them in our Part 3 of the comprehensive Thailand guide.
Contents
Day 9 – Familiarizing with the island of Koh Tao
Day 10 – Circuit around Koh Tao and Koh Nang Yuan
Day 11 – Inland Koh Tao
Day 12 – New Year’s Eve on Koh Samui
Day 13 – Circuit around Koh Samui
Day 14 – Northeast of Koh Samui
Day 9 – Familiarizing with the island of Koh Tao
After the previous Khao Sok National Park, we focused on the islands Koh Tao and Koh Samui. If you are a pary-animal, do not miss the island Koh Phangan, where the famous Half Moon and Full Moon parties take place. A comprehensive travel package (van, bus, boats) from Khao Sok to Koh Tao with Lomprayah company cost us 1100 THB.
If you buy a package from Krabi, it’s significantly cheaper – around 700 THB. You only have two options to choose from Khao Sok – in the morning at 6:00 and 11:00. The entire journey takes 8.5 hours. First, we ride from the national park to the bus stop in Khao Sok. Then we take a van to the bus station in the city of Surat Thani, where we switch to a double-decker bus. This bus takes us to Donsak Pier.
The next mode of transportation is a high-speed catamaran, which stops at Koh Samui and ends at Koh Phangan. One would think that these boats run continuously, but no. We have to wait almost two hours for the next boat that goes to Koh Tao.
At Mae Haad Pier in Koh Tao, we arrive around 14:30, welcomed by an incredibly crowded island. Our accommodation Greenery Resort offers free transportation, which was convenient for us. The accommodation is pleasant, the hotel still has a new feel, and we have an incredibly helpful receptionist. Perhaps the only downside was the unpaved access road, but that will surely be fixed over time.
Before dark, we go to see our nearest beach Chalok Baan Kaok BayA peaceful bay is lined with numerous hotels, and the water here is knee-deep for several tens of meters. We chose to have dinner based on TripAdvisor’s recommendation at Yin Yang restaurant. If you need wifi, don’t count on it in this restaurant. However, you will dine luxuriously here. Also, be aware that only cash is accepted for payment. Information on ATM withdrawals can be found in our first part of the detailed guide to Thailand.
Day 10 – Koh Tao and Koh Nang Yuan Tour
Koh Tao translates to “Turtle Island.” Nowadays, you won’t encounter many turtles here, and a more fitting name would be “diver’s paradise.” It’s an island with the highest number of dive centers in the world and where the most diving licenses are issued globally.
If you only have a few days on Koh Tao, it’s worth taking a full-day boat trip around the island and to the nearby island of Koh Nang Yuan. Through our hotel, we pay 750 THB, but we also saw cheaper options for 600 THB on billboards in town. Make sure, however, that it’s a larger boat because a longtail boat is not particularly safe in rough waters.
The entire trip is door-to-door, with a morning pick-up from the hotel and an afternoon drop-off. They will also lend you goggles and a snorkel, but it’s worth having your own. Losing or damaging them incurs higher fees than new equipment.
The journey starts from Mae Haad Pier, where a two-story boat awaits. Complimentary water and chocolate-pineapple snacks are available onboard, with beer available for an extra charge. The route takes you around the island counterclockwise and against the rough sea today. The first stop is snorkeling at Shark Bay.
The name isn’t just a coincidence, as supposedly you can meet a blacktip reef shark here. But you don’t need to worry, it’s harmless and we weren’t “lucky” enough to see it.
The sea is quite rough, so our captain decided that we wouldn’t continue around Koh Tao, but turn back. Apparently, this happens often. The alternative program is snorkeling in Freedom Beach. In the end, there’s nothing to regret, as the snorkeling here is excellent. Eventually, it turns out to be one of the best spots on the island in terms of the number and variety of fish. The third snorkeling spot is at the end of Sairee Beach.
We move on to the picturesque island of Koh Nang Yuan, where we have a two-hour break. On-site, you will need to pay 100 THB for entry to the national park. Bringing cans or plastic bottles to the island is prohibited. But it’s not that strict, as nobody bothered us about having a water bottle. Right at the beginning of the island, there is an amazing view of the beach and the other part of the island, often seen in postcards.
The climb itself takes about 10 minutes, and if there are a lot of boats, queues can form. You need to be careful on the viewing cliff, as everyone wants to take the best selfie, and right next to it, there’s a cliff. After descending from the viewpoint, we go sunbathe on the beach. The Japanese Gardens were supposed to be an excellent snorkeling spot, but unfortunately, they are closed due to the waves. Snorkeling in other nearby areas is weaker. Alternatively, you can have a drink at the bar at the diving center.
We board the boat and head back to Mae Haad Pier. From there, we drive to our accommodation. After a short rest, we go for a swim at our beach, Chalok Baan Kaok Bay. As mentioned, it’s more of a dip, as the water is shallow for quite a distance. For dinner, we chose the restaurant Laemklong based on TripAdvisor recommendations.
Day 11 – Inland Koh Tao
The inland of Koh Tao island is ideal for exploration by scooter, the popular mode of transport here. However, the terrain is hilly, so caution is advised. Let our balance be a warning to you – one broken leg and one smashed scooter. Also, don’t forget they drive on the left here.
TIP: When renting a scooter, insist on insurance. It’s not typically included, and in case of any damage to the scooter, they may ask for 300-400€ (we paid 13,000 THB).
There are very few bike rentals on the island, you can count them on one hand. The rental price is almost the same as for scooters. Initially, they wanted 100 THB/day, but we managed to negotiate it down to 80 THB. Just like with scooters, they also take your passport as a deposit for bikes. After a thorough search for bikes, we set off for a ride around the island, with me on a bike and the rest of the crew on scooters.
TIP: If you want a scooter, make a reservation right after arriving at your accommodation, as they tend to get fully booked.
Our first stop is the viewpoint Love KohTao, which offers a beautiful panoramic view. It is located within the buffet area, so you either need to order something or pay a symbolic entrance fee. It’s definitely worth it for those few photos. Further up the road, you will come across the Two View Bar & Restaurant. From the terrace, you can enjoy an amazing view of the western part of the island, Sairee Beach, and Koh Nang Yuan Island. It takes about 10 more minutes to reach the highest point of the island, where you can see the eastern coast.
TIP: Along the way, there are two large boulders behind which there is a platform with a similar view to the restaurant, but you’ll have more privacy there.
For the afternoon, there are two beaches left, just descent down the steep hill. The first one isTanote Bay, which is supposed to be the best beach for snorkeling on paper. And we can confirm that. We saw a lot of fish and corals here, especially when you approach the big rock in the middle.
The second beach Ao Leuk Beach charges an entrance fee of 100 THB which includes a drink. This beach had large waves and jellyfish, so swimming was not ideal. After the challenging transfers, it was nice to just relax on a sunbed. On the right side, there is a multi-level stylish bar. You’ll need to climb back up the slope or push your bike up.
I had an unfortunate incident going downhill to Freedom Beach, where I fell off my bike. The result was a cut elbow and a broken leg, which we only discovered four days later. It’s better to proactively ask for an X-ray; they didn’t do it for me, they just treated the visible injuries. Sadly, even the taxi driver tried to make some money and took me slowly to the hospital on the other end of the island.
Day 12 – New Year’s Eve on Koh Samui
We decided to spend New Year’s Eve 2017 on Koh Samui. The morning transfer with a swollen foot is a bit more challenging. The high-speed catamaran is safer than other boats, but when there are waves, it’s like a roller coaster even on it. First stop Koh Phangan and then our destination Koh Samui.
Accommodation at Natural Samui Hotel is located near Bangrak Pier in the Bophut area. We took a taxi for 600 THB. The hotel is conveniently situated close to the center and has a pool if you have spare time. There is an excellent restaurant My Cafe & Restaurant just a few hundred meters away. For the whole stay, we rent a scooter, which is the most suitable means of transport. Based on past experiences, we opted for insurance, which cost 200 THB per day.
A regular ritual for the following days was my scooter ride to the hospital. Luckily, my friend had so much patience with me. The nearest hospital was Bandon International Hospital, and I can say they are booming with tourist-patients. It’s good business.
We had our New Year’s Eve dinner at the beachfront in Bophut Beach. From the beach, you can see the island Koh Phangan in the distance. We moved on to an Australian bar with a live band for drinks. There’s a fireworks display on the beach at midnight.
Day 13 – Circuit around Koh Samui
One can circle around Koh Samui Island on a scooter in one day. Approximately a 75-kilometer route We started our journey clockwise. The first stop is Wat Khao Hua Jook Temple. The word “wat” in Thailand refers to a specific type of monastery or temple. The temple is built on top of a hill, from which you can also see the airport runway. Yes, Koh Samui also has a small airport.
Before our arrival, Koh Samui experienced heavy floods, and the same occurred after we left, so we were very fortunate. Many beaches were flooded during our stay. For example, the beautiful Chaweng Beach. A contrast to this large beach is the small cozy Silver Beach, where there were also large waves. We continue south to Lamai Beach, at the end of which are the famous Hin Ta & Hin Yai Rocks.
Grandfather (Ta) and Grandmother (Yai) appear as male and female reproductive organs. Along the way, there are Wat Samret temples, where you can find many interesting tombs, and Wat Khuranam, where a mummified monk is located.
The inland of Koh Samui is quite mountainous. We planned to visit the Secret Buddha Garden or Magic Garden. The entrance fee is 80 THB. In the park, you will find statues of Buddha, birds, snakes, and other animals, as well as the founders themselves. The main group of statues includes many angelic figures and a group of musicians. There are also waterfalls in the area.
Our last stop of the journey is Nathon Sunset Viewpoint, overlooking the western side. Along the way, there is a restaurant with the same name, Sunset restaurant, so we decided to have dinner there. On the left side, you can find Coconut Beach.
Day 14 – Northeast of Koh Samui
Our plan for the last day includes exploring the nearby area. An ideal beach for relaxation is Bophut Beach. It is a long, wide beach where you can lay back on a sunbed and observe Koh Phangan Island. If you get bored, you can swim or engage in some adrenaline-pumping water activities.
We noticed several signs warning about purple jellyfish, so it’s better to wear goggles when entering the water. There are plenty of bars near the beach, and during our visit, there were also markets. Bargaining wasn’t really an option. Don’t forget to try the massages; they offer them at a good price on every corner. We haven’t had a better foot massage 🙂
In the afternoon, we explored the northeast part of the island. Behind Bangrak Pier, there is a small island with the temple complex Wat Phra Yai. The highlight is the 12-meter golden statue of the Big Buddha. It depicts Buddha in a state of peace, purity, and determination when he overcame the temptations and fears sent by Mara, the lord of illusion.
The temple’s structure incorporates elements of animism, Brahminism, and Buddhism in its architecture. Like many Thai temples, the staircase is lined with statues of nagas. Within the temple compound, there is a bazaar selling tourist items, amulets, and other Buddhist artifacts.
The second temple is Wat Plai Laem, which is also built on water. Dominating the sides of the temple are two massive statues – the Laughing Buddha and Guanyin, the goddess of compassion and mercy. The statue of the goddess is in a Chinese style with 18 arms. We also stopped at Choeng Mon Beach, but unfortunately, it was flooded.
We have arranged a comprehensive travel package from Koh Samui to Bangkok, which includes a boat – minibus – airplane.
TIP: You can purchase a comprehensive travel package directly through the AirAsia website and not have to worry about the connections.
During the boat trip to the mainland, you can enjoy the view of the small islands from the Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park. If you have enough time, make sure to stop there, it’s an optional full-day trip. The price is around 1800-2000 THB.
